Next few days flew at Kolkatta and Ranjana my next co-traveler joined me. With the Kabir bliss flowing within, the wheels turned towards Jharkhand known also as Singhbhum- meaning land of lions. Hari uncle was our angel once again. When he heard that we were driving in Jharkhand unaware of anything he put on his army hat one more time and within a day we became the guests of Jharkhand state police.
The drive from Kolkatta was via Chaukulia and Ghatsila forest area. The moment we left outskirts of Kolkatta road condition started depleting and scenic beauty took over our senses. Dense woods, fragrance of rain filled soil, lush green trees and mountain ranges. Amidst the beauty the beasty heavy unmanned traffic of lorries was a clear irony in this space. As we drove past the forest area we stopped at an HP petrol bunk for a short break. As we parked we saw no-one except one boy so we asked him about the washroom and he guided us. Till this point I had not feared even once but as we walked to the place we spotted 5 men playing cards close by. My heart leaped into my throat. For a minute my mind raced in 1000 fearful directions and I could hear drumming in my ears as these men casually asked if we needed something. BothRanjana and I looked into each other’s eyes, prayed and became still. We found some strength and both of us swiftly attended nature’s call and exited. Nothing odd happened but the sheer thought of “what could have” gripped us in those few moments. A message in Marathi by Swami Samarth Maharaj that is etched into my heart flickered..“tubhiunakos, me tujyapathisiaahe”…which means “do not be afraid, I am watching your back”. Probably, that was the last time I feared a situation like that.
The journey to Jamshedpur was filled with potholes and roadblocks that were removed by the police and we were constantly thanking Hari uncle for arranging this royal entourage for us as it would have been challenging to get past the forest before nightfall. We were put up at Tata Guesthouse and we met DCP Jacintha who was somewhat perplexed to hear about yatra stories and not able to comprehend why would someone spend time doing it!!
Next day we were to meet a couple of NGO’s and enjoyed some more VIP status! Honestly, it was an experience of ego boosting. Thanks to Arundada’s earlier circle in Baroda I was reminded that all this is for the pilgrim and not for the ‘I’. Following morning Jacintha and her troupe arrived to take us to an ashram that also is engaged in some bit of rural development. We met a Swami-ji who warmly spoke about the work they do and we saw a handicrafts store.
Then we met the real hero at one tea stall. This guy owns a small tea stall. A woman who daily cleaned his shop and filled water for meager salary once brought a handmade scarf to sell so she could just make a little more money. He heard her story and was moved to do something long term for her.
The next day was spent mostly in reflection of this area- Jharkhand- rich in natural resources on one hand and feared by naxals on the other. Jamshedpur, a city that was developed after independence to bring development in the area showcasing typical city scenes around 5 km radius and beyond that you come across stark poverty, completely ignorant and unemployed population. The pertinent question of what is development? Once again surfaced..no right answers yet. Also had a discussion with some policemen who shared the plight of naxals. Officially, these stories are banned for any kind of sharing, so will leave it at that. At night, Jacintha met us to inform we will be driven to Rourkela by police driver as we should not be driving on our own through another forest area.
We were surprised as we had nothing practically that could be looted but she said Sundari (our car) had quotes on it in English and any such car with something written on it is taken as government vehicle which is a reason enough to loot, or kill or do anything. For the first time I realized even “peace” quotes can become deadly if not perceived correctly. She also invited to come again with more time so we could visit some places interiors and spend more time understanding the area. I was humbled by her invitation and saw a loving glimpse in a woman who was otherwise so feared by her staff and pretty strict. Before we parted we left a little gift with smile card for her and hugged her. Something in her melted in that brief energy exchange.
Except for stopping at Deori temple of Goddess where Dhoni- our cricket captain regularly pays visit, we drove without a break. Something that the mind had understood in the night we felt during the day; Emptiness/ lifelessness on the road. No tea stalls, no petrol bunk, no telephone range, no human being and only one or two vehicles in the entire stretch of 2 hours. This dreaded beautiful road was to be covered quickly the logic being with your limited intellect you cannot guess where a gunshot can be fired from or an arrow can flatten a tyre within seconds. The driver was narrating incidents of death, abduction and looting that had happened here and how it was important to pass through it during day time. That too before 2 pm!
Those 2 days brought out so many contrasting features of spaces, people and self within. There was a lot to reflect upon before boarding the “life line express”